OF MICE AND raMEN: Day 9 : Toledo

Perched on a hill above the Tagus River, Toledo is a living museum of Spain’s layered past. Once home to Christians, Muslims, and Jews, the city earned its title as the “City of Three Cultures.” Its winding medieval streets, grand cathedrals, synagogues, and mosques stand side by side, reflecting centuries of coexistence and artistic fusion. Every corner tells a story — from Visigothic roots to Moorish arches and Gothic spires — making Toledo one of Spain’s most captivating historic sights.

To reach this hilltop gem, we took the Recaredo escalators — a modern blessing for such an ancient city. Our guide joked that we should pray they’re working, and after seeing how steep Toledo really is, we understood why! 😅 The series of outdoor escalators glide smoothly up the hillside, carrying visitors from the car park below straight into the old quarter. It’s a wonderfully unexpected way to arrive — stepping off at the top to find yourself surrounded by stone walls, weathered gates, and views that instantly transport you back in time.

Church of San Román

Today, the church is home to the Museum of Visigothic Councils and Culture. Built in the 13th century, the church showcases the *Mudéjar style, where Christian and Islamic artistry come together. Over the centuries, the site has served as a *Visigothic church, later a mosque, and eventually restored as a church. Inside, visitors can see Romanesque frescoes from the 1200s and elegant horseshoe arches, along with exhibits celebrating the Visigoths who once made Toledo the heart of their kingdom.

*Mudéjar elements are Islamic decorative features—such as geometric patterns, brickwork, tiles, and carved wood—integrated into Christian-era buildings in Spain after the Reconquista.

*Visigoths — a Germanic people who ruled much of the Iberian Peninsula between the 5th and 8th centuries.

In Spanish history, the Visigothic period is an important era that came after the fall of the Roman Empire. The Visigoths made Toledo their capital, turning it into the political and religious center of their kingdom.

Toledo Cathedral

City Hall of Toledo

Toledo through my lens

As we wandered through a maze of narrow, cobbled lanes lined with artisan shops, cozy cafés, and timeworn facades with wrought-iron balconies, I happened to look up… and there it was — a tiny balcony guarded by stone frogs. Little surprises like this are why I adore Toledo. In this atmospheric corner of the city, where history seems to whisper from every wall, you’re always bound to stumble upon something quirky and utterly adorable.

The tiled street signs of Toledo are one of the city’s charming details that often go unnoticed at first glance. 💙

Each sign is made of hand-painted ceramic tiles, often framed in blue and white, showing the street name in elegant lettering — sometimes with small decorative motifs or coats of arms. This tradition dates back centuries and reflects Toledo’s rich ceramic heritage, influenced by Moorish and Spanish craftsmanship.

They’re not just practical markers — they’re tiny works of art that add to the city’s old-world atmosphere, perfectly matching Toledo’s cobbled streets and historic architecture.

Everywhere you walk in Toledo, you’ll spot sword shops glinting with steel — a nod to the city’s centuries-old reputation as the home of Spain’s finest blades. ⚔️

Since Roman times, Toledo has been famous for its exceptional sword-making, known as “Toledo steel.” The tradition continued through the Middle Ages, supplying weapons for knights, soldiers, and even royal armies.

Today, the craft lives on through countless workshops and souvenir stores that line the streets, displaying shining swords, daggers, and replicas from movies and history. It’s a fascinating reminder of Toledo’s legacy as the sword-making capital of Spain.

LUNCH @ La Parrilla

Lunch at La Parrilla de Toledo was a true Castilian feast — paella with tender perdiz (partridge), rich oxtail stew that melted off the bone, and creamy arroz con leche to finish. Traditional flavors, centuries old, still cooked with love in the heart of Spain. ❤️🍷

Arroz con leche — a creamy Spanish dessert made with soft, slow-cooked rice simmered in milk and sugar, with a touch of cinnamon on top.

Oxtail stew (rabo de toro) originated in Córdoba, and it was indeed once considered a humble, hearty meal eaten by matadors and locals after bullfights. Traditionally, the tails of the bulls used in the arena were cooked slowly with red wine, onions, tomatoes, and spices to create a rich, tender stew.

Over time, rabo de toro evolved from a modest dish into a Spanish culinary classic, now served in fine restaurants across Andalusia and beyond — but its roots remain firmly tied to Córdoba’s bullfighting heritage.

After lunch, we took the Recaredo escalators back down. From above, Toledo’s terracotta rooftops stretched across the hillside, with the majestic dome of the Church of San Ildefonso rising proudly in the skyline. The scene was bathed in golden afternoon light, framed by rolling plains and dramatic clouds beyond the city walls. Gliding down the escalator, it felt like a gentle, moving farewell — Toledo’s timeless beauty unfolding one last time before our eyes.