Day 7: Ronda - Córdoba

Our day began at the beautiful Alameda del Tajo, a peaceful park in Ronda filled with shady trees, colorful flowers, and sweeping views of the countryside. It was the perfect spot for a morning walk—quiet, refreshing, and so full of charm. Locals were out enjoying the sunshine, some walking their dogs while others relaxed on benches beneath the old plane trees. 

From the park’s edge, we could already glimpse the patchwork of farmland below — a quilt stitched in gold and olive green. Meandering roads curled through the terrain like loose ribbons, while distant mountains rose softly in the background.

Leaving the park, we walked to Puente Nuevo, Ronda’s most iconic landmark. The short stroll led us to breathtaking views of El Tajo gorge, where the massive 18th-century stone bridge dramatically links the two towns of Ronda—the newer El Mercadillo and the historic La Ciudad—high above the Guadalevín River.

Built in the 18th century, this architectural marvel soars nearly 100 meters above the gorge and took over 40 years to complete — a masterpiece that still offers one of Spain’s most spectacular views.

Next, we visited Plaza de Toros, Ronda’s legendary bullring and one of the oldest in Spain. 

Standing in the middle of the grand sandy arena, it felt like stepping into a scene from an old Spanish film — you half expect a matador to appear with a flourish of his cape! 

At the arched entrance, it’s impossible not to imagine the past rushing forward.

Picture it: a massive wooden gate bursting open, a raging bull charging out in a blur of muscle and dust. The crowd roars from the stone tiers, a wall of sound rising under the Andalusian sun. Trumpets, tension, excitement—every heartbeat synced to the intensity unfolding in the sand.

This plaza has witnessed centuries of spectacle. Built in the late 18th century, the Plaza de Toros de Ronda is one of Spain’s oldest and most revered bullrings, often called the birthplace of modern bullfighting. Legends were made here, traditions refined, and reputations sealed with a single pass of the cape.

Today, though, the arena feels different.

The stands are quiet. The gravel crunches softly underfoot. Instead of adrenaline, there’s reflection. While bullfights are still occasionally held here, most notably during Ronda’s famous Corrida Goyesca, they are far fewer than in the past—and increasingly controversial. The space now functions largely as a museum and historical monument, inviting visitors to learn rather than cheer.

Here, in the calm after centuries of noise, I felt relief.

Relief that this place can be appreciated for its architecture, its history, and its cultural significance—without the blood and suffering that once defined its purpose. The echoes of the crowd may linger in the stone, but the silence feels like progress.

Some traditions are worth remembering.

Others are better left in the past.

La Ciudad

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced

The church is renowned for housing one of Spain’s most venerated relics—the incorruptible hand of Saint Teresa of Ávila, a 16th-century Carmelite mystic and reformer of the Carmelite order. In Catholic tradition, “incorruptible” refers to a body part that has resisted decomposition after death, which is seen as a sign of holiness. The hand is kept in a special reliquary inside the church and attracts pilgrims and visitors who come to pay their respects and seek spiritual inspiration.

A horse and carriage 

A scene that looks like it belongs in a postcard. But instead of charm, my heart ached. The horse stood there, silent and patient, bearing not just the carriage but the weight of expectation, of tradition, of tourists’ fleeting amusement. What was once celebrated feels heavy now, and I couldn’t help imagining the loneliness and quiet suffering behind those eyes. The romance of the scene fades when you realize who truly carries the burden.

Lunch @ Restaurante Abades Ronda

Lunch at Restaurante Abades Ronda — a hearty Andalusian spread! 🍽️ We started with embutidos ibéricos (local cold cuts), soup, and croquetas de pollo, or chicken croquettes — a classic Spanish tapa commonly served in Ronda. The main dish was carne en salsa, tender beef stew with fries, and we ended on a sweet note with natillas con galleta, a creamy custard topped with a simple biscuit. Comfort food with a Spanish soul.

After lunch, we crossed to the opposite side of the gorge for a completely different view of the town. From this angle, the Puente Nuevo looked even more magnificent — a towering sweep of stone bridging the cliffs, with whitewashed houses perched daringly along the edge. Below, the gorge plunged deep and narrow, the river glimmering in the sun like a silver thread. It was one of those scenes that make you pause, breathe, and quietly say to yourself, wow… this is Ronda.

Now you can see the whitewashed houses of the new town on the left, and the rugged cliffs of the old town rising on the right — Ronda in perfect balance.

From there, we continued our journey to Córdoba, arriving just in time for a delightful dinner.

We started with Calamares Rellenos con Arroz y Salsa Verde, tender squid stuffed and served with rice and a bright green sauce, followed by Solomillo de Cerdo en Salsa, succulent pork tenderloin bathed in a rich, savory sauce with potatoes and vegetables. To finish, we shared a slice of pastel cordobés, Córdoba’s signature puff pastry tart dusted with sugar and filled with sweet pumpkin jam. A hearty end to a day of cliff-top views.