Day 4 - Portugal: Obidos and Lisbon

Bom dia!

We set off from Porto in the morning, making our way south toward the medieval town of Óbidos. Along the route, we stopped for lunch at a buffet restaurant — Restaurante Lisboa XL in Caldas da Rainha.Before we all made a beeline for the buffet tables, we were served a hearty and delicious soup called Sopa da Pedra — a rich, rustic Portuguese stone soup brimming with beans, vegetables, and chouriço.

The soup apparently has a legend behind it. The story comes from Almeirim, Portugal. A poor friar, too proud to beg for food, arrives in a village carrying nothing but a smooth stone. He asks for a pot and claims he will make “stone soup.” Curious, the villagers gather to watch.

As the friar begins cooking, he casually suggests, “It would taste better with a bit of onion…” and someone offers one. Then he mentions carrots, beans, chouriço, and meat—each time, another villager contributes.

By the end, the pot is full of a rich, nourishing soup, made possible by everyone’s generosity. The stone? It remains in the pot, but is never eaten.

It was a nice way of sampling a variety of Portuguese dishes —  stews, grilled meats, fresh seafood, and plenty of local sides — though unfortunately, all the labels were in Portuguese, so I had no idea what I was eating!

Óbidos

Óbidos is a charming medieval town in central Portugal, known for its well-preserved castle, cobbled streets, and whitewashed houses adorned with colorful flowers. Surrounded by ancient walls, the town has a rich history: originally a Roman settlement, it later became a Moorish stronghold before being captured by the Christians in the 12th century. From the 13th century onward, Óbidos was traditionally given as part of the queen’s dowry to successive Portuguese queens, earning it the nickname “The Town of Queens.” Over the centuries, its castle and walls were expanded and fortified, preserving the town’s medieval charm for visitors today.

Funnily enough, the temperatures in Óbidos were around 81°F (27°C) — cooler than Malaysia, where it’s usually around 86°F–95°F (30–35°C) — and yet it felt so much hotter! I was burning badly, so thank goodness I brought an umbrella for some much-needed shade.

From Óbidos, we rolled into Lisbon.

LISBON

Lisbon really is built on seven hills! And my legs confirm it.

You always hear people say Lisbon is built on seven hills. I thought it was just one of those pretty phrases travel guides like to use… until I actually walked it. Let me tell you — Lisbon takes its hills very seriously.

Everywhere you go, it’s either uphill, downhill, or “wait, why is this street suddenly a staircase?” But that's exactly what gives the city its charm. These seven hills shape everything: the twisting lanes, the way buildings perch on cliffs like they’re holding on for dear life, and of course the postcard-perfect viewpoints (miradouros) that just appear out of nowhere when you turn a corner gasping for air.

The funny thing is, Lisbonians have been dealing with this terrain for centuries, so they invented all sorts of clever ways to stop people from collapsing halfway through — trams, funiculars, even the dramatic Santa Justa Lift that looks like it came straight out of a Victorian novel. All designed for one purpose: saving everyone’s knees.

So yes, Lisbon is indeed the “City of Seven Hills,” and after walking around, I’m convinced every single one found a way into my itinerary. But honestly? The views from the top make all the panting, sweating, and uphill questioning-of-life absolutely worth it.

If you ever visit, just remember this simple tip:

Wear good shoes… and maybe stretch first.

These statues, situated in Praça dos Restauradores are the work of Sergio Stichini. They depict two craftsmen who lay the cobblestones that pave Lisbon’s streets—a striking tribute to the often unseen hands that help make the city beautiful.

Chafariz do Carmo

Tucked into Largo do Carmo, this 18th-century fountain once brought water into the city through the Águas Livres Aqueduct. Its arches, carved dolphins, and Lioz limestone are easy to miss at first glance, but it’s one of those quiet corners where Lisbon’s history lingers.

Sofia

You’ll find her right in front of the Santa Justa Elevator—this lilac-coloured woman called Sofia, casually holding a crumb vacuum as if she’s just stepped out of a quirky dream. She appeared here in 2022, left quietly by the mysterious Portuguese artist known only as Superlinox (often called a local Banksy).

Sofia’s a bit of a character. According to the artist, she’s a woman “full of conviction, self-esteem and self-respect… a diva with a cleaning craze.” Hence the tiny vacuum—she supposedly hates crumbs.

Santa Justa Lift

Lisbon’s little mustard-yellow trams are one of the city’s sweetest charms. They rattle through the narrow, winding streets with so much character, as if they’ve been carrying stories for a hundred years — which some of them actually have. What I love most is how these tiny old trams somehow hold their own in a modern city. They’re cheerful, stubborn, and full of personality — a bit like Lisbon itself.

Praça do Comércio 

Praça do Comércio was the site of a dramatic moment in Portuguese history: in 1908, King Carlos I and his heir Luís Filipe were assassinated here, an event that shook the nation and helped bring an end to the monarchy.

O Mundo Fantástico da Sardinha Portuguesa

Remember that sardine shop in Gaia that had me grinning? Lisbon made sure the fun continued.

 Walking in is like stepping into a place part carnival, part circus, and a sprinkle of Willy Wonka magic—if Willy Wonka had traded chocolate for shimmering tins of fish. Each shelf bursts with tins in every color, pattern, and personality imaginable, from glittering retro designs to cheeky modern illustrations that make you smile.

The humble sardine here takes center stage, turned into a cultural icon with all the whimsy and charm of a vintage fair.

I bought a tin that caught my eye—not for the fish inside, but for the utterly beautiful packaging. Once home, I realized it was too gorgeous to open. Now it sits proudly in my display cabinet, right alongside all my other treasured souvenirs, a tiny, whimsical reminder of Portugal’s playful charm.

FUN FACT

Sardines aren’t just food in Portugal—they’re a national symbol. Every June, during Festas de Santo António (Festivals of Saint Anthony), Lisbon’s streets fill with music, grilled sardines, and colorful decorations celebrating this beloved fish.

During the festivals, sardines are everywhere—on plates, hanging from streets, and even in songs. According to legend, Saint Anthony went to the water’s edge to preach when people weren’t listening, and fish rose to the surface to “hear” him. This story adds a touch of myth to the sardine’s big cultural role.

DINNER @ Adega Da Mó

We were served what looked like a giant pot of risotto… but not quite. It turned out to be Arroz de Marisco, Portugal’s soul-warming seafood rice. Think of it as a cross between a risotto and a cosy stew — loose, brothy, and full of flavour.

The rice comes soaking in a tomatoey base laced with garlic, onions and white wine, and every spoonful carries the sweetness of the sea. Prawns, mussels, clams, squid… it’s a whole little ocean gathered in one bubbling pot. A sprinkle of fresh coriander on top and that’s it — pure comfort, the kind of dish you slow down for and savour.

A full day of exploring Lisbon left us happily worn out, and dinner at Adega da Mó was exactly what we needed. Good food, an easy atmosphere, and that soft Lisbon glow — the kind that lets a long day settle without fuss.