Caganer

This little shopfront stops almost everyone in their tracks — because standing right at the entrance is a figurine doing something… very un-souvenir-like.

What you’re looking at is a caganer, one of Catalonia’s most unexpected and beloved traditions.

The caganer (from the Catalan verb cagar, “to poop”) is a small figurine traditionally depicted squatting with trousers down. For centuries, he has been placed discreetly in Catalan nativity scenes, usually hidden somewhere at the back among the fields. While it may look cheeky or even shocking at first, the meaning behind it is surprisingly wholesome.

Historically, the caganer symbolises fertility, renewal, and good fortune. In an agrarian society, fertilising the land was essential for good harvests — so the act represents abundance, prosperity, and the cycle of life. Far from being rude, a nativity scene without a caganer was once considered bad luck.

Over time, this humble squatting figure evolved from a simple peasant into a cultural icon. Today, you’ll find caganers in all forms: traditional farmers, politicians, footballers, pop stars, and cartoon characters — all rendered in the same unmistakable pose. Shops like this one in Barcelona proudly celebrate the tradition, turning it into both folk art and playful social commentary.

Seen through modern eyes, the caganer perfectly captures Catalonia’s sense of humour: irreverent, down-to-earth, and unafraid to poke fun at authority — or at life itself. It’s a reminder that even in sacred or serious moments, there’s room for humanity, laughter, and a little earthiness.

So yes, it’s funny. Yes, it’s bold.
But more than that, the caganer is a tiny squatting symbol of luck, history, and Catalan identity — unapologetically doing its thing, right at the doorway.

Somewhere between folklore and fun sits this tiny caganer mouse — small in size, big in personality. He may be doing something undignified, but he carries with him wishes of luck, abundance, and a wink from Catalonia’s mischievous soul.

Tart Meets Art

No tour to Lisbon would be complete if you haven’t tried the legendary pastéis de nata from Pastéis de Belém.

Outside the pastry shop, two queues stretched endlessly—one for dining in, the other for takeaway. Our guide spared us the wait, ordering boxes to-go for all thirty of us.

While everyone clustered outside, tarts in hand, I slipped inside to find the toilets—and stopped in my tracks.

I went in expecting a restroom and found something closer to a tiled gallery.

The toilet stalls are wrapped in blue-and-white azulejos, their intricate floral patterns flowing seamlessly from door to door. Each cubicle looks less like a stall and more like a porcelain panel from a museum—elegant, deliberate, almost ceremonial.

Inside Pastéis de Belém, the azulejos quietly steal the show.

Blue-and-white tiles line the walls everywhere—along dining rooms, corners, sinks, even the spaces you barely notice at first. Some tell small stories, others repeat familiar patterns of flowers, birds, and boats. Nothing flashy. Just layers of detail that slowly draw you in.

Of course, I couldn’t resist. I took photos, trying to capture that quiet moment of beauty before stepping back into the bustle.

Through a glass partition, visitors can watch skilled pastry chefs roll, fill, and bake the tarts in a rhythm honed over generations. The aroma of caramelizing custard and buttery pastry drifts out, offering a sensory glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship behind each iconic pastel.

The magic in full view. 

A few fun and fascinating facts that make this place special:

• Baking here dates back to 1837, next to the Jerónimos Monastery.

• The recipe originated with monks who once lived there.

• The secret recipe is still fiercely guarded and prepared in a sealed room.

• Only tarts made here can officially be called Pastéis de Belém—all others are pastéis de nata.

• They bake thousands daily, fresh in constant batches.

• Locals eat them warm, with cinnamon and powdered sugar.

Funny how I went in looking for a restroom and walked out with photos, goosebumps, and the sense that Portugal had just revealed itself—quietly, beautifully, and through a custard tart.

The Rooster of Barcelos

I first noticed these colourful rooster figurines in the souvenir shops in Lisbon and honestly thought they had something to do with Nando’s. It was only when our local guide pointed them out that I learned they are actually the national symbol of Portugal.

And there’s a fascinating legend behind this cheerful little rooster.

The famous Rooster of Barcelos (Portuguese: Galo de Barcelos) comes from a medieval tale. Long ago, a pilgrim was passing through Barcelos on his way to Santiago de Compostela when he was wrongly accused of theft and sentenced to hang.

Desperate to prove his innocence, he begged to see the judge, who happened to be enjoying a roasted rooster for dinner. The pilgrim pointed to the bird and declared, “I am innocent — and to prove it, that rooster will crow when I am on the gallows.” Everyone laughed…

But just as the execution was about to happen, the roasted rooster stood up and crowed loudly. The shocked judge rushed to stop the hanging, and the pilgrim was saved just in time.

Today, that colourful rooster has become a symbol of faith, justice, and good luck — and you can find it absolutely everywhere in Portugal: on coasters, plaques, aprons, magnets, mugs, tiles, and almost anything you can imagine.

Day 11: Madrid

Our final day was spent exploring the vibrant streets of Madrid, a city that feels both grand and full of life. From elegant plazas and lively markets to charming tiled corners and sunny terraces, every stop was a reminder of Spain’s irresistible spirit.

SNAPSHOTS OF MADRID

Four Seasons Hotel

Our guide stopped at Puerta del Sol to show us a small bronze plaque on the ground — Kilómetro Cero, the very center of Spain, marking the point from which all distances in Spain are measured. She said that if you step inside the circle, it means you’ll return to Madrid one day. Of course, we couldn’t resist stepping in — just to make sure! 

A brief walking tour with our guide led us to Mercado de San Miguel — a feast for the senses! 🍤🧀🍷

From juicy tapas and fresh seafood to irresistible pastries and sangria, every corner of this historic market was pure temptation. If only I could taste everything in one visit! 

LUNCH @ CASA DE VALENCIA

Our last meal in Spain

This handsome waiter brought out a huge pan of steaming paella for us to admire — and of course, we all wanted photos! As we took turns posing, he muttered with a hint of impatience, “It’s heavy, you know.” 😅 Still, the golden rice and sizzling seafood were worth every second of his effort — and ours! 🍤🥘

 

All good things come to an end…

Our last day in this sun-drenched corner of the world was bittersweet. After weeks of wandering through tiled streets, sunlit plazas, and storybook towns — and countless pastéis de nata and churros from hotel breakfast buffets every single morning (always telling myself “just one more”) — it was finally time to say adiós and até logo.

With lunch behind us, our tour leader thoughtfully planned a stop at El Corte Inglés, Spain’s iconic department store — perfectly timed for a red-eye flight back to Kuala Lumpur. Some of us went in search of last-minute treasures, while others relaxed in the comfort of the VIP lounge, grateful for a quiet pause before the long journey home.

Now the bags are packed, the souvenirs safely tucked away, and my heart feels full — of laughter, tapas, sangria, and a thousand little moments I’ll never forget.

Spain and Portugal have a way of growing on you — and I hope I’ll be back someday. ❤️