Day 6: Seville

It was an early start as we left Lisbon, crossing the border from Portugal back into Spain — a scenic six-hour drive through rolling hills and golden plains. Our first stop in Spain was Badajoz, where we had lunch at a restaurant in a hotel. Spaniards usually have lunch later in the afternoon, around 1:30 PM to 3:30 PM, so throughout the trip our tour manager had to carefully coordinate with restaurants that could accommodate our group for earlier meals — usually around 12:30 PM for lunch and 6:00 PM for dinner, as we Malaysians tend to eat earlier than the locals.

I especially enjoyed the rich and velvety crema de legumbres — a warm, creamy soup made from blended legumes such as lentils, chickpeas, or beans.

In Spain, the day moves at a different pace — people generally rise later, start work later, and dine much later. The main meal, la comida, is typically between 2:00 PM and 3:30 PM, while dinner (la cena) often doesn’t begin until 9:00 PM or later. Because of this long gap between lunch and dinner, Spaniards developed the custom of enjoying tapas — small plates or snacks usually shared over drinks in the early evening. Tapas aren’t a full dinner but a social way to bridge the hours until the late meal, reflecting the country’s relaxed rhythm and love of conversation. Interestingly, our guide told us there’s even a story behind the word itself. The word tapa means “lid” in Spanish, and it’s said that bartenders once covered glasses of wine with a slice of bread or ham to keep the flies out. Over time, those simple “lids” evolved into the delicious small plates we now know as tapas.

After our lunch stop, we continued on to Seville, ready to soak up the vibrant rhythm and warmth of Andalusia.

Snapshots of Seville

This building is a typical example of Andalusian architecture, featuring Gothic, *Mudéjar, and Renaissance elements.

*Mudéjar elements are Islamic decorative features—such as geometric patterns, brickwork, tiles, and carved wood—integrated into Christian-era buildings in Spain after the Reconquista.

The Seville Cathedral

We took so many photos of Seville Cathedral, but I don’t want to inundate you with them all at once. So here’s just one glimpse — I’ll save the rest for an upcoming post, because this masterpiece, the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, deserves a post all to itself.

Stumbled upon this beautiful azulejo panel on my stroll towards Plaza de España — a little narrative embedded in Seville’s tile traditions. Azulejos are hand-painted ceramic tiles, a centuries-old art form brought to Spain by the Moors and now an iconic feature of Andalusian architecture.

From Seville Cathedral, we made our way to Plaza de España, and nothing quite prepares you for it. The sheer size is astonishing, and the sense of grandeur unfolds slowly as you take it all in — the sweep of the buildings, the openness, the presence of the square.

Plaza de España

Plaza de España was created for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, a world’s fair meant to showcase Spain’s history, culture, and its ties with Latin America. Rather than temporary pavilions, Seville built something monumental and lasting.

This  ornate ceiling sits quietly above one of the arches.

Everywhere in Spain and Portugal, even the most practical things — maps, street names, house numbers, shop signs — are turned into azulejos. Directions don’t just tell you where to go; they pause you for a moment. Cool to the touch, sun-washed, slightly imperfect, these tiled signs feel both functional and poetic. I kept stopping, not because I was lost, but because I didn’t want to walk past them.

One of the most captivating spots in Plaza de España is the long curve lined with 49 tiled benches, each one representing a different province of Spain. Every alcove is a work of art — adorned with colourful azulejos that depict historical scenes, coats of arms, and even a map of the province on the floor

We ended the day with a flamenco dinner show — a mesmerizing blend of music, dance, and Andalusian flavor all in one evening. 

As we enjoyed our meal, the stage came alive with rhythmic footwork, soulful guitar, and the raw passion that makes flamenco so unforgettable. You feel every stomp, every note, every emotion.

Flamenco is a traditional Spanish art form that combines singing (cante), guitar playing (toque), dance (baile), and rhythmic handclaps (palmas). It originated in Andalusia in southern Spain, influenced by the region’s diverse cultural roots — including Moorish, Jewish, and Gypsy traditions. Recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, flamenco is known for its emotional intensity, intricate footwork, and expressive movements.

                          

Another city, another day carefully folded into memory.            

Day 5 - Portugal: Sintra -> Almada -> Belém

We arrived at Pena Palace in Sintra after a scenic coach ride from Sintra town centre and then transferred into a smaller shuttle that wound its way up the forested hillside. From the drop-off point at the park entrance, we continued on foot along a paved path through the wooded grounds of the palace park—this final stretch offered a quiet, leafy preview before the grand reveal of the palace itself. 

Sintra—thought to come from “Cynthia,” an ancient name for the moon goddess Artemis, reflecting the area’s long association with mysticism and nature. The region’s misty hills and lush forests have inspired legends since ancient times, adding to its romantic allure.

Pena Palace (Palácio da Pena)

Pena Palace was built in the 19th century on the site of a former monastery and served as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family. Commissioned by King Ferdinand II, it combines Gothic, Moorish, and Manueline architectural styles, reflecting the Romantic taste of the period. The palace stands on one of the highest peaks in the Sintra hills and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Love the details and intricacy of the azulejos framing the archway

Between the three of us, we took over 300 photos, but I only shared a handful here to keep it light. Every corner of Sintra’s palaces seemed photo-worthy — from intricate tiles and painted ceilings to elegant courtyards, grand halls, and rooms filled with royal curiosities. Still, photos hardly do justice to the sheer beauty and detail of the place.

Arco do Tritão

According to local Sintra lore, Triton — the half-man, half-fish sea god depicted in this arch — is believed to watch over the palace’s waters and surrounding hills. His presence symbolizes the connection between land and sea, a theme that runs deep in both Portuguese mythology and the Romantic ideals behind Pena Palace.

Note the carvings that shift from coral and shells to vines and leaves: he embodies the balance between the marine and earthly worlds — a perfect reflection of Sintra’s mystical harmony with nature.

The Triton of Portuguese mythology draws inspiration from the Greek sea god Triton, son of Poseidon, but is reimagined through Romantic and local symbolism. In Sintra, he becomes a figure of transformation, linking sea and land, myth and nature, and past and present.

The Stag Room

The Stag Room was originally designed as a dining room but was later used by King Ferdinand II to display his art collection, particularly ceramics. The room features a large central column and a ceiling with a dome-like structure. The walls are decorated with hunting trophies, such as deer antlers, which give the room its name.

Although it appears to be carved wood, the ceiling is actually made of plaster. Artisans in the 19th century used stucco and paint to imitate timber, a technique favored by King Ferdinand II to achieve the look of a medieval palace without the weight and cost of real wood.

The bed appears unusually short because people in the 19th century often slept in a semi-reclined position rather than lying flat. At the time, it was believed that sleeping propped up aided digestion, improved breathing, and prevented illness. Beds also served as places for reading or receiving visitors, so a more upright posture was considered proper and comfortable. 

The Royal Kitchen

Next, we made our way across the Tagus River to Cristo Rei in Almada, the giant statue of Christ that watches over Lisbon. Towering 28 metres above its pedestal — which brings the total height to a staggering 110 metres — it’s impossible to miss and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city, the river, and the iconic Ponte 25 de Abril.

Inspired by Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer, but with a distinctly Portuguese design, the monument was built as a sign of gratitude: the bishops of Portugal pledged to construct it if the country was spared from the devastation of World War II. Standing there, looking up at Christ with arms outstretched, it’s easy to feel the sense of awe and serenity the site was meant to evoke.

Surrounding the statue, a series of crosses marks the Stations of the Cross, reflecting the 14 moments of Christ’s journey from condemnation to burial. Walking among them, visitors can pause to reflect and meditate, adding a spiritual dimension to the visit.

My and my new tour buddy

After visiting the Monument of Discoveries, we made our way to the Jerónimos Monastery. By this time, we were overwhelmed by the sheer scale, intricate details, and historic grandeur… sensory overload! In the midst of it all, we only managed to capture a few photos, so I have just these to share.

Located in Lisbon’s Belém district, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a masterpiece of Manueline architecture. Built in the early 16th century, it was commissioned by King Manuel I to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s successful voyage to India. The monastery complex includes the Church of Santa Maria de Belém, which houses the tombs of Vasco da Gama and the poet Luís de Camões. The site also features ornate cloisters, intricate stone carvings, and is a symbol of Portugal’s Age of Discovery.

South Portal

The south portal is a magnificent Manueline entrance completed in the early 16th century by João de Castilho. Adorned with statues of saints, apostles, and Portugal’s royal patrons, it reflects the country’s faith and power during the Age of Discovery. Above the doorway stands a statue of Our Lady of Belém (Mother Mary) with the infant Jesus, facing the Tagus River to bless ships as they set sail. While this portal is largely religious in theme, maritime motifs such as ropes, corals, and sea plants appear elsewhere in the monastery—especially in its exquisite cloisters and west portal.

I could stare at Jerónimos Monastery’s ceiling forever. Massive stone vaults are held up by delicate columns that branch like palms, each rib carved with leaves, ropes, and waves. It’s incredible how something so heavy feels almost weightless

From here, we continued to the Monument of Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), a striking riverside tribute to Portugal’s Age of Exploration.

Shaped like a ship’s prow, it honors figures such as Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama, and Ferdinand Magellan — men who helped expand the horizons of the known world. Our local guide gave an incredibly detailed explanation of each figure, and Son #1 was especially fascinated by Afonso de Albuquerque, whose expeditions reached as far as Melaka in Malaysia. Seeing this brought back memories of our secondary school history books — my late dad, who his students still tell me was the best history teacher ever, would have loved to walk through this and share all the stories himself. There was so much to take in — definitely a story for another post!

Caught in the rain at the monument — umbrellas up, spirits high! ☔️

In front of the Monument of Discoveries lies a massive compass rose and world map made of marble and mosaic, a gift from South Africa in 1960. It charts the routes of Portuguese explorers across the globe, marking the far reaches of their voyages. 

From wikipedia to show its full scale

Our following stop was the famous Pastéis de Belém, the pastry shop said to hold the original secret recipe for Portugal’s beloved custard tarts. According to our guide, the recipe originated with the Hieronymite monks of Jerónimos Monastery, who used egg whites to starch their robes and clarify wine, leaving behind plenty of egg yolks. To avoid waste, the monks created rich, yolk-based sweets — and so the first pastéis de nata were born. When the monastery was closed in 1834, the recipe was sold to a nearby sugar refinery, whose owners opened Pastéis de Belém in 1837. To this day, the bakery continues to guard the original recipe, known only to a handful of master pastry chefs.

Seriously good! 

These tarts are popular back home in Malaysia — but honestly, nothing even comes close to the real deal here in Belém! The queue was long enough to test our patience, but one bite of that warm, flaky perfection and we completely forgot about the wait. Totally worth it!

Dinner @ D'Bacalhau

Bacalhau is the Portuguese word for salted and dried cod, a staple of Portuguese cuisine for over 500 years. Traditionally, the cod is caught in the cold waters of the North Atlantic—especially near Norway, Iceland, and Newfoundland—then preserved by soaking it in salt and drying it. This preservation method made cod durable enough for long sea voyages during the Age of Discoveries, and it became deeply woven into Portuguese food culture.

Before cooking, bacalhau is rehydrated by soaking it in water for 24–48 hours, with several water changes. Once softened, it can be cooked in countless styles: baked, fried, grilled, stewed, shredded, or served with cream, olive oil, potatoes, onions, or eggs. Portuguese often say there are “mais de mil maneiras de fazer bacalhau” — more than a thousand ways to cook cod — because of its extraordinary versatility.

Today, bacalhau remains one of Portugal’s most iconic ingredients, appearing in both home cooking and restaurant menus throughout the country.

Classic Portuguese starters

Each item reflects a traditional “Na Mesa” (On the Table) ritual that sets the tone before D’Bacalhau’s showstopper arrives.

Degustação de Bacalhau — Codfish Tasting Platter

A curated selection of four traditional Portuguese cod preparations, each with its own texture, seasoning, and story.

We were just getting comfortable with our plates of bacalhau when—bam!—the lights went out. Total blackout in the entire area. Luckily, our trusty cellphones came to the rescue, turning every table into a soft blue glow — kinda romantic in a weird sort of way.

When nature called, heading to the toilet in total pitch blackness was… let’s just say, mildly alarming. But fear not! With our phone torches leading the way, we heroically avoided collisions with walls, tables, and the occasional bewildered waiter. Honestly, can you imagine doing this before the advent of cellphones? 

By the time we had to leave, we marched to the bus, phones in hand, looking like a procession of modern tech pilgrims. And yes, now you know why there are no dessert photos — it arrived in the blackout, invisible to the human eye but forever illuminated in our memories. Thank goodness for cellphones—true travel superheroes! 😄