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Wednesday, January 29, 2025

Day 9: Kotor, Montenegro

Today is the final day of our Balkan adventure. Our last day promises something unforgettable – a journey to the Our Lady of the Rocks, home to a beautiful church and a fascinating history.

 Perast
Perast is a charming town in Kotor Bay, known for its historic architecture and stunning views.

From Perast, you can board a boat to the picturesque islet of Our Lady of the Rocks.

View of Perast from our boat

Closing in on Our Lady of the Rocks...

On route to Our Lady of the Rocks, we passed by St. George's Island, a small patch of land cloaked in cypress trees.
St. George's Island is home to a Benedictine monastery that dates back to the 12th century. The island also served as a cemetery for the nobility of Perast. Many prominent families from the town chose this serene and isolated island as their final resting place, adding to its historical importance. St. George's Island is sometimes referred to as the "Island of the Dead" because of its association with funerals and burials. According to local legend, the island is cursed, and those who disturb its peace may face misfortune. The island is famously covered in tall cypress trees, which give it a distinct and somewhat somber appearance. These trees symbolize death and eternity, enhancing the island's reputation as a tranquil yet solemn place. Unlike Our Lady of the Rocks, St. George's Island is not open to the public. This restriction helps preserve its tranquil atmosphere and historical structures, but it also contributes to its mystique. Visitors can admire the island from a distance or while on a boat tour.

Our Lady of the Rocks
The legend of Our Lady of the Rocks in Kotor is truly captivating. On July 22, 1452, two fishermen from Perast stumbled upon an icon of the Virgin Mary and Child on a small rocky islet in the Bay of Kotor. One of the fishermen, who had been previously crippled, attributed his miraculous healing to the icon. When they rediscovered the icon the following day, they decided to build a church on the islet in honor of the Virgin Mary. To achieve this, the locals began sinking old ships filled with rocks, gradually creating a foundation for the island. This method allowed them to expand the land and eventually construct the church on the islet. Over the centuries, local seamen have upheld the tradition of throwing rocks into the sea to enlarge the islet. This custom continues to this day and is celebrated annually on July 22 during an event called Fašinada, where locals take their boats and throw rocks into the sea to further widen the island.

The church houses a fascinating museum that showcases centuries of maritime history and devotion. Inside, visitors can explore votive offerings, intricate artwork, and historical artifacts, all reflecting the deep connection between the local community and the Virgin Mary.

The ceiling of Our Lady of the Rocks church - stunning Baroque-style frescoes depicting vivid religious scenes 

Embroidered image of Mother Mary
This tapestry created by Jacinta Kunic-Mijović holds significant historical and emotional value, reflecting a deeply personal story. Jacinta worked on this tapestry for over 25 years while waiting for her sailor husband, who was lost at sea. The piece embodies her love, faith, and hope, as well as her grief and longing. Embroidered with gold and silver thread, the tapestry's most unique feature is that Jacinta used her own hair for parts of the design. As her hair turned from dark to gray over the years, this transformation is captured in the embroidery, adding a poignant, personal touch to the work.

Inside the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks, a fascinating room showcases a collection of bells and kerosene lamps, donated by sailors as votive offerings. The bells, used on ships for signaling, symbolize gratitude for safe voyages, while the kerosene lamps, once essential for lighting homes and vessels, represent the light of faith. These artifacts reflect the deep maritime traditions of the Bay of Kotor, where seafarers entrusted their safety to Our Lady. The room, part of the church’s museum, offers a serene glimpse into the lives and devotion of those who relied on the sea.


Silver plaques as votive offerings from sailors, given in gratitude to the Virgin Mary for safe passage through perilous seas. Each plaque, often intricately designed and inscribed, tells a personal story of survival and faith. Over centuries, this collection has grown into one of Europe’s largest and most remarkable displays of maritime devotion.

Once back on the mainland, we returned to the old town of Kotor.

Pima Palace
The  Pima Palace, a 17th-century Baroque gem, reflects the wealth and prominence of the noble Pima family, with its ornate balcony and Venetian-inspired design.
The Pima family eventually declined in influence, as often happens with noble families over time. After the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797, Kotor became part of the Austrian Empire, which shifted the political and social dynamics in the region. The Pima family, like many other noble families, gradually lost their political power. Today, their legacy lives on through architectural landmarks like the Pima Palace, but the family itself no longer holds any prominent position in Kotor's modern society

The Church of St. Nicholas - Serbian Orthodox church built from 1902 to 1909.


Lunch @ Giardino


After lunch, it was time to bid farewell to this beautiful part of the world. Though it was hard to leave, I knew that these cherished memories would stay with me forever, and perhaps one day, I’d return to explore even more of this stunning region.

Wednesday, January 22, 2025

Day 8: Dubrovnik (Day2) - Kotor, Montenegro

Mount Srd

Lokrum Island
Famous for its free-roaming peacocks, Lokrum Island is also home to the historic 11th-century Benedictine monastery. Additionally, the island served as the stunning backdrop for the fictional city of Qarth in Game of Thrones.

Fort Lovrijenac
The legendary Fort Lovrijenac, also known as the 'Gibraltar of Dubrovnik.' This iconic fortress doubled as King's Landing in Game of Thrones.

Dubrovnik's steep stairs are both a challenge and a charm! Winding through the old town’s narrow streets, these staircases are an iconic part of the city's layout, offering glimpses of hidden courtyards, cozy cafes, and stunning views as you climb. They’re not for the faint of heart, though—be ready for a leg workout! But every step is worth it to experience the magic of this historic city.


The City Walls
Take note of the multipurpose court on the left of the photo. Our tour guide mentioned that she attended school here. Seeing it nestled within the historic walls of Dubrovnik is fascinating. It’s a vivid reminder of how life continues to thrive in these centuries-old surroundings.

It’s incredible to witness how the historical and modern coexist within Dubrovnik’s ancient walls. This blend of history and contemporary life—where children study and play in the shadows of stone fortifications that have stood for centuries—illustrates the resilience and adaptability of the city's residents. It also highlights how living heritage isn’t just about preserving the past but actively integrating it into the present.
The walls of Dubrovnik, which represent one of the most significant medieval fortification systems in Europe, were continuously developed and modernized until 1660. This includes the completion of the Bastion of St. Stephen on the southern side. These walls span approximately 1,940 meters in length and feature numerous defensive structures, including 16 towers, three fortresses, and six bastions.

The walls vary in thickness depending on their location: on the landward side, they are between 4 and 6 meters thick, while on the seaward side, they range from 1.5 to 3 meters. Some sections reach up to 25 meters in height. Other notable elements include moats, flank fortresses, breakwaters, and drawbridges, which helped the city maintain its defenses against various threats throughout history​.

View of the main street, Stradun (Placa) below from the City Walls
Chinese Lunch @ Dubrovnik


KOTOR, MONTENEGRO

The Arms Square
The square got its name because it was where weapons were repaired and stored during the Venetian Republic's rule. Soldiers would gather here to equip themselves before defending the city.



There's something magical about the cobbled stones and narrow alleyways of Kotor Old Town. As you walk through them, you can almost feel the history beneath your feet, each stone worn smooth by centuries of footsteps.
 The winding alleys, with their timeless charm, seem to lead you into hidden corners of the past. It is as if you're stepping into a storybook, where every turn brings a new discovery—whether it’s a quiet courtyard, a centuries-old door, or a small café tucked away from the bustle. 

Perched on the slopes of St. John’s Hill (also known as San Giovanni Hill) high above the charming town of Kotor is the Catholic Church of Our Lady of Remedy.
A popular pilgrimage site, the church is accessed by a steep, winding pathway of around 650 steps that lead from the town below to the church. An altar is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, revered here as a protector against plagues and illness. In fact, the church was built by locals in gratitude after Kotor survived an outbreak of the plague.

St. Nicholas Church Dome and the massive walls of Bastion Riva, part of Kotor's Old Town fortifications, near the river Shkurda.

The ancient walls at night


I noticed a prevalence of cat-themed souvenirs in Kotor. According to our tour guide, Kotor has a long history with cats. Hundreds of years ago, when Kotor was an important trading port, cats would often wander off ships and get left behind. Over time, these cats became a beloved part of the town's culture.
One notable figure in Kotor is Danijela, who runs Danijela's Cat Shop. She and her family have been caring for the local cat population for generations, providing food and medical care. Her shop offers a variety of cat-themed souvenirs, from postcards and magnets to clothing and artwork. The souvenirs help support the cats and raise awareness about their care. So, the ubiquitous cat-themed souvenirs in Kotor are a nod to the town's feline history and the ongoing efforts to care for its stray cats 🐱

As we wrapped up our walking tour of Kotor and headed toward our coach, we passed by this massive cruise ship. Earlier in the day, the town was startled by a deep, resonant horn blast—it turns out this was the source! Seeing it up close was impressive, especially after it left such a booming impression on the entire town. With the promise of more adventures awaiting us tomorrow, we bid a quiet goodnight to Kotor, its ancient walls, and its shimmering waters. Until morning, when we’d return to explore its charm once more.
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