Grič Tunnel: Zagreb’s Hidden Underground Passage

Tucked beneath the charming streets of Zagreb’s old town, the Grič Tunnel is a fascinating piece of history that has transformed into a unique attraction. Originally built in 1943 during World War II, this 350-meter-long tunnel served as a bomb shelter for civilians. After the war, it was largely forgotten until the 1990s, when it briefly became famous for hosting an illegal underground rave called "Under City Rave."

At the time, Zagreb was still recovering from the Croatian War of Independence, and the city was under blackout restrictions at night due to the conflict. Despite this, the abandoned tunnel became the site of one of the biggest and boldest underground parties in Croatia’s history. Thousands of young people, looking for a way to let off steam, packed into the tunnel, dancing to electronic beats under dim, flickering lights. 

The event was totally unauthorized, and when authorities found out, they shut it down. But by then, the Grič Tunnel had made headlines, and the once-forgotten passage was suddenly a symbol of resilience and rebellion. 

This unexpected moment in history helped put the tunnel back on the map, leading to its eventual restoration and reopening in 2016 as a cultural attraction!

 Today, visitors can walk through it for free and experience its cool underground atmosphere. 

 Some visitors hear whispers and feel sudden chills—echoes of history or something lurking in the shadows? 👻

Sharing these stunning images of the Grič Tunnel decorated with artistic light installations, sourced from the internet. The tunnel frequently transforms into a creative space for exhibitions, festivals, and immersive experiences.

Legendary rave party that took place in the tunnel in 1993

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Kacang putih

Stumbled upon this kacang putih seller in my hometown—such a wave of nostalgia! Back in my school days, there was always a kacang putih seller outside the school gates, serving up crispy treats in cone wraps torn from Yellow Pages. For those who don’t remember, the Yellow Pages was a thick business directory before the internet took over, and its pages were often repurposed as snack wrappers!

 

Modern-day kacang putih vendor in a local mall

In Malaysia, a kacang putih seller is someone who sells a variety of crunchy, spiced snacks, often made from legumes, nuts, and flour-based ingredients. The term kacang putih (literally "white nuts" in Malay) originally referred to steamed or roasted chickpeas but has since expanded to include a wide assortment of traditional Indian snacks.

Origins and History

The kacang putih trade in Malaysia has strong roots in the Indian community, particularly among the Tamil population. The trade is believed to have started in the 1940s in Buntong, Perak, where Indian migrants turned to selling snacks as a livelihood. Buntong remains famous for its kacang putih industry today.

Types of Kacang Putih Snacks

A kacang putih seller typically offers:

• Murukku – A deep-fried, crunchy, spiral-shaped snack made from rice and urad dal flour.
• Peanut varieties – Roasted, spiced, or honey-coated peanuts.
• Fried peas & lentils – Spiced green peas, chickpeas, and dhal coated in a crispy batter.
• Broad beans – Fried and lightly salted or spiced.
• Tapioca chips – Thinly sliced and fried, sometimes with chili or turmeric seasoning.

Where to Find Kacang Putih Sellers

Traditionally, kacang putih was sold by street vendors pushing carts, setting up roadside stalls, or selling from small shops. Today, you can find them in:

• Night markets (pasar malam)
• Roadside stalls
• Indian sundry shops
• Some supermarkets, where pre-packed kacang putih is available

Modern Adaptations

While kacang putih sellers have adapted to changing times by offering pre-packaged snacks, some still maintain the traditional method of selling from carts. There are also wholesalers in Buntong supplying these snacks nationwide. Some sellers even take orders online and deliver in bulk.

There’s something special about getting them fresh from a street vendor—just like the good old days!

Dinner

Lemon grass pork

Tofu with minced pork

Spinach with century eggs and goji berries

Strolling through our pasar malam (night market), I was instantly drawn in by the smoky aroma of sizzling seafood on the grill.

FROM THE TRAVEL ARCHIVES

The Loggia of the Church of the Holy Cross, Rovinj

Tucked away in Rovinj, the Church of the Holy Cross features this beautiful loggia, a serene spot overlooking the Adriatic. This historic site adds to the town’s charm, complementing the legendary tale of St. Euphemia, whose sarcophagus was found mysteriously drifting at sea nearby.

 It is said that the sarcophagus remained for a while in this church before being moved to its final resting place. An inscription on a pole at the foot of the church, set up on a rock by the sea, bears witness to this event

Read more about the fascinating story of St. Euphemia here: The Church of St. Euphemia Mystery.

The Church of St. Euphemia : Mystery, Legend and Faith

The Church of St. Euphemia in Rovinj is more than just a stunning landmark—it is a place where legend, faith, and mystery intertwine.

In the year 800, after a fierce storm, a mysterious white marble sarcophagus was found drifting in the waters near Rovinj. The townspeople, both fearful and awestruck, gathered at the shore, struggling to move the heavy tomb. Yet, despite their greatest efforts, it would not budge. Then, as if guided by an unseen hand, a young boy with two small calves stepped forward. With ease, he transported the sarcophagus up the hill, where it was finally opened.

What they discovered inside left them breathless. Lying within was the remarkably well-preserved body of St. Euphemia, a Christian martyr who had been tortured and executed under Emperor Diocletian in 303 AD. Though centuries had passed since her death, her body remained untouched by time—a miracle that was seen as a divine sign that she had found her rightful home in Rovinj.

1883 fresco by Leonardo Riga depicting the sarcophagus being carried into the town.

image source - www.inforovinj.com

To honor their newfound protector, the townspeople built a grand church on the hill, where her relics remain enshrined to this day.

 Rising above the church is its magnificent bell tower, inspired by St. Mark’s Campanile in Venice. At its peak stands a statue of St. Euphemia herself, not fixed in place but ever in motion. Acting as a weather vane, the statue gracefully turns with the wind, as if still watching over Rovinj, guiding its people just as she did when she first arrived on its shores.

With its rich history, breathtaking views, and an enduring sense of the miraculous, the Church of St. Euphemia remains one of Rovinj’s most treasured landmarks—a place where faith and legend whisper through the Adriatic breeze.

The arrival of the sarcophagus was seen as a divine sign, and Euphemia was venerated as the town's patron saint.

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Remnants of past Christmas cheer

Dinner - Kanom Jeen Nam Ya Pla

Kanom Jeen Nam Ya Pla (ขนมจีนน้ำยาปลา) is a classic Thai dish featuring soft, fermented rice noodles (kanom jeen) served with a rich and aromatic fish-based curry sauce (nam ya pla). The curry is typically made from blended fish, coconut milk, and a fragrant mix of herbs and spices such as lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, turmeric, and dried chilies. The result is a creamy, slightly spicy, and deeply flavorful sauce that pairs beautifully with the delicate noodles.

This dish is often garnished with fresh vegetables like bean sprouts, pickled mustard greens, cucumbers, and Thai basil, adding a refreshing contrast to the rich curry. It's a staple at Thai markets and home-cooked meals, loved for its comforting yet bold flavors. Some variations include Nam Ya Kati (a creamier version with extra coconut milk) and Nam Ya Pu (crab-based curry).

Tawny Coster (Acraea terpsichore)

FROM THE TRAVEL ARCHIVES

Florence

Kitty chilling on the curb😺

Spotted this in a restaurant

Kamenita Vrata

The Stone Gate, or Kamenita Vrata, is one of Zagreb's most cherished historical landmarks and a significant spiritual site. Located in the Upper Town (Gornji Grad), this medieval stone gate dates back to the 13th century and is the last remaining of five gates from the old city’s fortifications.

The gate is famous not only for its historical role in protecting the city but also for a legend tied to a miraculous event. In 1731, a devastating fire swept through the city, destroying half the town, including the Stone Gate. When the flames subsided, a painting of the Virgin Mary and Child was found miraculously unscathed amid the ruins. Believing it to be a sign of divine intervention, the locals enshrined the painting in the passageway of the Stone Gate, and it became a place of pilgrimage.

The painting is now preserved within an ornate wrought-iron enclosure inside a small chapel nestled within the passageway of the Stone Gate. The chapel is dedicated to the miraculous painting, and the Virgin Mary, who is also the patron saint of Zagreb.

 As you walk through the gate, you also pass through the chapel. What a unique setup!

Can you spot the wooden benches tucked away in a quiet corner, offering a peaceful spot for visitors to pause, reflect, and contemplate the sacred space?

The chapel's walls are adorned with stone plaques.

Each of these thank-you tiles tells a unique story of how a prayer to the Virgin Mary of the Stone Gate was miraculously answered. Traditionally, when a prayer was fulfilled, the grateful individual would inscribe the tablet with the word Hvala—Croatian for "thank you"—along with details of the specific prayer that was answered. Many of the tiles on display express gratitude for the restored health of loved ones, a testament to faith and divine intervention.

The Stone Gate is not only a site of religious significance but also a cultural treasure. It plays a prominent role in the historical novel Zlatarevo Zlato (The Goldsmith's Treasure) by August Šenoa. Adding a literary touch to its rich history, a statue of Dora Krupić, a beloved character from the novel, is elegantly nestled in a niche within the landmark.

 Statue of Dora Krupić

Zlatarovo zlato (The Goldsmith's Treasure) is a historical novel by Croatian author August Šenoa, published in 1871. Set in 16th-century Zagreb, it weaves a tale of forbidden love between Dora, the daughter of a goldsmith, and Pavao, a nobleman, amidst a backdrop of class conflicts, intrigue, and betrayal. The novel is considered a cornerstone of Croatian literature, blending romantic and historical elements to capture the spirit of the time.

Dora is depicted holding a key, a powerful symbol of her role in the renowned historical novel Zlatarovo zlato (The Goldsmith's Treasure) by August Šenoa. In the story, Dora and her father serve as keepers of the keys to the Stone Gate, a crucial entryway traditionally opened and closed daily to protect the city's inhabitants.

                                               image credit - https://www.citypal.me/

Interestingly, on the roof of the Stone Gate sits a spiked fixture, a deterrent once placed on rooftops during medieval times to ensnare low-flying witches.

Whiskered Wanderers at the Stone Gates of Zagreb 🐭