Day 6: Croatia and Bosnia & Herzogovenia - Omis and Mostar

Omiš

Ahoy, mateys! Batten down the hatches as we set sail to the historic town of Omiš, once a haven for ruthless pirates on the Dalmatian coast!

Omiš is a charming town surrounded by dramatic cliffs where the emerald waters of the Cetina River meet the Adriatic Sea.

The town was known as a pirate stronghold from the 12th to 14th centuries, with local pirates called Omiški gusari dominating the Adriatic. The nearby Cetina River offered them a secure base, with its winding course and canyon providing natural protection.

Omiš is not only known for its rich history and stunning coastline but also for its striking limestone mountains, which dominate the landscape. These rugged, towering peaks, especially the Omiška Dinara mountain range, create a dramatic backdrop that adds to the town's allure.

FISH MARKET

The fish market is tucked into the charming streets of Omiš Old Town, surrounded by stone walls and traditional Dalmatian architecture.

The market comes alive early in the morning as fishermen bring in their fresh catch from the Adriatic Sea. You’ll find locals bargaining for the freshest fish, squid, and shellfish to prepare their meals for the day.

As I wandered through the Omiš fish market, I couldn’t help but be stunned by a fish I’d never seen before in my tropical corner of the world. Holy mackerel! That fish—I think it might have been a monkfish—was downright scary-looking! Its strange appearance, with its wide, gaping mouth full of sharp teeth and bumpy texture, made it look like something straight out of a deep-sea horror movie! 

Stairs leading to the Mirabella Fortress (Peovica)

Located above the Old Town, the 13th-century fortress served as a stronghold for the famous Omiš pirates. It provided them with a strategic vantage point to monitor and defend against incoming ships in the Adriatic. The fortress offers breathtaking views of the Old Town, with its narrow stone streets, red-roofed buildings, and historic churches nestled below. It’s a postcard-worthy scene.

My knees couldn’t take the climb to the Mirabella Fortress, but I heard from the rest of the tour group that the views from the top were breathtaking.

Here’s a photo I took from where I was.

According to our local guide, during a Turkish attack on Omiš in the mid-sixteenth century, the town's defenders shouted and fired from the fortress toward the Cetina Canyon. The echoes of their voices and gunfire created the illusion of a far larger defending force, causing the Turks to believe they were outnumbered and ultimately prompting them to retreat from the battle.

                      

Lunch @ Restoran Kaštil Slanica, Omiš

Appetizer - fried frog legs and black rissoto

Black risotto (crni rižot) - A classic Dalmatian dish made of cuttlefish and cuttlefish ink. Many people mistake it for squid. Frog legs are more common in continental Croatian cuisine, especially in regions with freshwater lakes. I decided to skip the frog legs since I’m a big fan of frogs and prefer to just admire them from a distance. But the black risotto was absolutely amazing!

A restaurant with a view... and a swashbuckling past! 🏴‍☠️

Spotted this fascinating map on a wall of the restaurant, showing off its pirate history and ties to the old Cetina River fortress.

The restaurant is located in a region, which was once a key area for pirate activity in the Dalmatian hinterland.

The Cetina Steel Bridge

The Cetina Steel Bridge connects two rugged cliffs that rise dramatically on either side of the Cetina River.

As we left Omiš behind and made our way to Mostar, I couldn’t help but reflect on the uniqueness of this quaint pirate town. The rugged cliffs, winding streets, and breathtaking riverside and coastal views will forever be etched in my memory. It was a perfect blend of natural beauty and rich history, and I absolutely enjoyed our time spent exploring it. Now, as we continue on our journey, I’m excited to see what awaits us in Mostar, but Omiš will always hold a special place in my heart.

BOSNIA AND HERZOGOVENIA

I can hardly believe that I’m actually in Bosnia now. The only connection I had to this country before was the influx of refugees arriving in Malaysia during the 1990s, as the Bosnian War raged on. I also remember that in the late 1990s, my mother visited Medjugorje on a pilgrimage tour—at that time, I had no idea that Medjugorje was even in Bosnia. Now, being here myself, it feels like a surreal and unexpected full-circle moment.

My mother, who is now in the advanced stages of dementia, would have been overjoyed to hear about this visit. I know she would have cherished the opportunity to learn that I’m here, in the very country she once visited with such reverence.

Alas, I am here on a group travel with a fixed itinerary, otherwise, I would have loved to visit Medjugorje myself and experience the place she once held so dear.

MOSTAR

The Stari Most Bridge 

The Stari Most Bridge in Mostar is famous for its breathtaking architecture and rich history, but it is also known for an interesting tradition—people who jump off the bridge, often for money! These daring jumpers leap from the bridge into the Neretva River below, a feat that has become a symbol of bravery, especially for locals. It's often done for a fee from onlookers who gather to watch. This practice is not only a thrilling display of courage but also a rite of passage for some young men in Mostar. The jump is about 20 meters (66 feet) high, making it an impressive stunt. In recent years, professional divers have also participated in the tradition, earning a reputation for their skill in executing perfect dives. The jumpers often dive for tips from the crowd, adding a layer of excitement for tourists and locals alike. The bridge itself is a symbol of unity and resilience, having been rebuilt after being destroyed in the Bosnian War in the 1990s. So, the act of diving from the Stari Most has come to represent not just daring courage but also the spirit of renewal in Mostar.

When we were at the bottom of the bridge, there was still dry ground to walk on to reach the perfect spot for the best view of the Stari Most. However, by the time we were returning, the water had risen quickly, rushing in like a tide. I managed to dart back to the bridge just in time, but a couple of people weren’t so lucky and ended up getting their shoes wet—brrr, the water must have been freezing! The stone steps we had come down were already submerged, and to escape the rising water, I had to clamber up the retaining wall nearby, clinging tightly to the railings, to get back to the bridge. What an unexpected adventure, especially for someone like me with anxiety issues!

Graceful minarets rise like slender spires, creating a fairy-tale backdrop for the iconic bridge

The paths in the old market near the bridge are unique and memorable. Unlike the typical cobblestone streets found in many historic European cities, these paths are made up of smooth, rounded pebbles. This not only creates a distinctive, mosaic-like texture underfoot but also makes the paths very slippery, especially when wet. It's quite different from what you might see in other cities and adds to the charm and character of the area.

 Navigating the Stari Most is a unique challenge due to its distinctive design. The bridge's pronounced arch creates a steep incline and decline, which can be tricky to traverse, especially for those unaccustomed to its uneven surface. The bridge is paved with tenelija, a locally quarried stone known for its smooth yet slippery texture, particularly when wet. To aid pedestrians, the bridge features small ridges spaced along its pathway. These ridges act as footholds, preventing slips and offering stability as you ascend or descend.

Despite the breathtaking surroundings, I was so focused on not slipping  and carefully navigating the steep incline that I completely missed the opportunity to take in the stunning views of the turquoise Neretva River and the charming old town around me! Crossing the Stari Most truly demands your full attention, and if you plan to walk it, make sure you have footwear with good grip to tackle the slippery surface and uneven ridges confidently. Hats off to those wearing high heels!

Dinner @ Mostar

Somun- traditional Bosnian flatbread

Traditional Bosnian mixed grill platter of Ćevapi, dolma, japrak, sausages and chicken on a bed of kurkuma rice.

The platter came with two different dips - kajmak (right) and ajvar (left).

Kajmak is a rich and creamy dairy spread made from milk, often served with grilled meats in the Balkans. It's not as tangy as tzatziki and lacks the cucumber and garlic, but it has a smooth, slightly tangy flavor that complements grilled dishes beautifully.

Ajvar is a traditional Balkan condiment made primarily from roasted red peppers and sometimes eggplant. It has a vibrant red color and a rich, slightly tangy flavor, with a texture ranging from smooth to chunky.

Cevapi (also spelled ćevapi, čevapčići, or cevapcici) are small, skinless sausages made from minced meat, usually a mix of beef and lamb or pork, seasoned with garlic, paprika, salt, and pepper. They are a traditional dish in the Balkans, popular in countries like Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Croatia, and North Macedonia.

Dolma - stuffed peppers with minced meat, rice and spices.

Japrak - beef mince and rice rolled in collard greens.

Hurmašica

This dessert consists of elongated, banana-shaped dough pieces made from flour, butter, and eggs, baked to a golden brown, and then soaked in a heavy sugar syrup. Hurmašica is intensely sweet and often garnished with a sprinkle of ground walnuts.

As I savor the last sweet bite of hurmašica, I’m filled with gratitude for a day rich in history, breathtaking landscapes, and incredible cuisine. The turquoise Neretva River and Bosnian warmth will linger in my heart as I eagerly await the next chapter of this journey, carrying with me the treasures of Omiš and Mostar.

Day 5: Croatia - Zadar and Split

After the stunning waterfalls and exhilarating boardwalks of Plitvice, we arrived in Zadar, where history, ruins, and the mesmerizing Sea Organ take center stage.

The Sea Gate

Grad is city in Croatian and Morske Orgulje means sea organ.

This structure in Zadar is part of the Sea Organ (Morske Orgulje), an architectural sound installation located on the waterfront. The feature resembling a piano keyboard is actually a set of steps and tubes built into the stonework along the coast. When waves and wind push through these tubes, they create harmonic sounds, similar to an organ. This unique design allows the sea itself to "play" music, with varying tones and melodies depending on the wave intensity and wind. The Sea Organ is a popular attraction for its soothing and natural acoustic ambiance.

                               

Monument to the Sun

Monument to the Sun aka Greeting to the Sun (Pozdrav Suncu) is a unique solar-powered art installation. Made up of 300 glass panels, it collects solar energy during the day and lights up in vibrant colors at night. Designed by architect Nikola Bašić, it celebrates the sun’s energy and creates a stunning light display.

The famous breakwater and small lighthouse in Zadar

The three angels on the pediment of the Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od Zdravlja)

Clockwise - Church of St. Donatus, Cathedral of St. Anastasia, bell tower of Cathedral of St. Anastasia

The thick stone walls and round design of the Church of St. Donatus create amazing acoustics, making it an ideal setting for concerts. The church is no longer used for regular religious services, so it has become a popular venue for classical music performances, especially during Zadar’s annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, known as the "Musical Evenings in St. Donatus.

Pillar of Shame

Standing in the Roman Forum, the largest in Croatia, this ancient column dates back to the Roman period. During the Middle Ages, it was used as a public pillory. Offenders were chained to the pillar, publicly humiliated, mocked, and sometimes whipped. The whole city was welcome to watch this public spectacle.

One can almost hear the chants of the crowd, their voices rising in a chorus of judgment. I shudder to imagine the shamed victim standing before the column, the sting of disgrace and humiliation seeping into their very bones.

Remains of the  Roman Forum

The  forum is an extraordinary open-air archaeological site where history feels tangible. Established by Emperor Augustus in the 1st century BC, the forum was the heart of ancient Roman life in Zadar, serving as a public gathering place, marketplace, and civic center.

What makes the experience so unique is that visitors can freely wander among the relics and literally reach out and touch these weathered pieces of history. Some even sit on the fragments of columns and pavements that date back millennia! You can almost hear the whispers of ancient voices that once filled these stones.

Exploring the ancient ruins in Zadar was already surreal, but when the bells from the nearby tower chimed, it became truly magical. I just love the sound of church bells; it feels like a gentle call from God, echoing through time and space. In that moment, standing among the ruins, I felt a deep sense of peace and connection to something greater.

Lunch @ Konoba Dalmacija Tavern, Zadar

With a heavy heart, we departed Zadar for Split, carrying with us a deep longing to experience its magic one last time. I couldn’t help wishing we had more time to return to the Sea Organ in the evening, to hear its soothing melody once more against the backdrop of the beautiful setting sun. The golden light reflecting on the waves, the gentle sea breeze, and the enchanting music would have been a perfect farewell. Adding to my regret, I missed the chance to witness the Monument to the Sun, its magical lights coming alive under the twilight sky. These moments will forever remain a wistful dream as we journeyed on to Split.

Alas, this is the beauty I missed, the mesmerizing lights of the Monument to the Sun by Youtuber Eric Clark.

                 

SPLIT

Diocletian’s Palace in Split—the real-life set for Game of Thrones.

The Peristyle

The Peristyle is the central courtyard of Diocletian's Palace in Split. It served as a grand ceremonial space where Emperor Diocletian, who styled himself as a living god, would appear before his subjects.

Surrounded by elegant colonnades, the Peristyle is a striking blend of Roman architecture and cultural influence, and it remains a focal point of the palace.

The black granite sphinx was brought from Egypt over 3,500 years ago, crafted during Pharaoh Thutmose III's reign. Emperor Diocletian imported it to adorn his palace, reflecting his fascination with Egyptian culture and art. It now graces the Peristyle, a timeless link between ancient Egypt and Roman history.

Guardian lion at the entrance of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius.

Basement of Diocletian's Palace

In the "Game of Thrones" series, this area served as the underground chambers of Meereen, where Daenerys Targaryen kept her dragons. The vaulted stone ceilings and ancient Roman architecture create a perfect setting for the dragon-keeping scenes.

View looking up through the ancient stone walls of the Vestibule. The Vestibule, a circular room with a domed roof that is now partially open to the sky, was originally an entrance area to Diocletian's private quarters. Through the open roof, you can see the bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (also known as the Cathedral of St. Duje), which stands as one of Split’s iconic landmarks.

Bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius

The vestibule is often used for klapa performances, a traditional style of a cappella singing that originates from the Dalmatian region. The reason for this lies in the exceptional acoustics, which allow the voices to resonate and echo, creating a captivating auditory experience. Above, the oculus — Latin for "eye in the sky" — acts as a symbolic path between earth and sky, letting in light and amplifying the natural sound of the singers below. It's a perfect union of architecture and music, where the ancient design enhances the modern performances.

                                   

FUN FACTS

The Difference Between Klapa and A Cappella
While both klapa and a cappella refer to vocal music performed without instrumental accompaniment, there are key differences. Klapa is a traditional style of a cappella singing from the Dalmatian region, typically performed by groups of men or women. It is characterized by harmonious, often emotional, vocal arrangements that emphasize the unique cultural sounds of the region. Klapa music is deeply rooted in Croatian folk traditions and often focuses on themes of love, nature, and life along the Dalmatian coast.

A cappella, on the other hand, is a broader term that simply refers to singing without instrumental backing, and it can span various genres from classical to contemporary music. While a cappella groups can perform many different styles of music, klapa specifically refers to the unique, traditional harmonies of the Dalmatian region.

Walking towards our coach back to the hotel, we spotted a bridal photography shoot. 

 It felt like a little treat and the perfect way to wrap up such a lovely day in Split!