Silent Stories#10

The Statue of Gregory of Nin (Grgur Ninski) is one of the most recognisable landmarks in Split, Croatia, standing just outside the Golden Gate of Diocletian’s Palace. Created by Croatia’s celebrated sculptor Ivan Meštrović, the enormous bronze figure depicts the medieval bishop with a stern, almost angry expression — an appearance that seems fitting for a man known for challenging the religious establishment of his time.

Key Details of the Statue

• Location: The statue stands just outside the Golden Gate (Zlatna vrata), the northern entrance to Diocletian’s Palace in Split.

• The Subject: Gregory of Nin (Grgur Ninski) was a 10th-century Croatian bishop and an important figure in Croatia’s cultural and religious history. He strongly advocated the use of Old Slavonic, rather than Latin, in church services, allowing worshippers to hear the liturgy in a language they could understand.

• The Sculptor: The statue was created by Ivan Meštrović, one of Croatia’s most important sculptors. He portrayed Gregory as an imposing, powerful and determined figure rather than a gentle-looking bishop.

• The Expression: Gregory's stern face, furrowed brow and commanding pose give him an almost perpetually angry appearance. Our guide jokingly told us that Gregory was "always angry" — and judging from his expression, he certainly looks like a man who was not easily pleased!

• The Size: The bronze statue stands approximately 7.5 metres tall, making Gregory appear particularly imposing as he towers over visitors approaching the Golden Gate.

• The Original Location: The statue was unveiled in 1929 in the Peristyle, the central square within Diocletian’s Palace. During World War II, it was removed by the Italian occupying forces. In 1954, it was relocated to its present position outside the Golden Gate.

The Famous Toe

• The Good-Luck Tradition: Visitors traditionally rub Gregory’s big left toe for good luck. Some believe that touching the toe will also ensure that they return to Split one day.

• The Shiny Toe: After countless visitors have rubbed it over the years, the bronze toe has become noticeably smooth and golden-looking, standing out against the dark bronze of the rest of the statue.

• A Popular Photo Stop: It has become almost impossible to visit the statue without seeing tourists lining up to touch the famous toe — turning a serious monument to a medieval bishop into one of Split's most entertaining tourist traditions.

An Interesting Contrast

The statue was created to commemorate a significant figure in Croatian religious and cultural history, particularly his advocacy of the Croatian/Slavic language in church worship. Yet today, many visitors may know Gregory less for his historical importance than for his enormous statue, perpetually angry expression and extraordinarily shiny toe.

And perhaps that is the most amusing part of the story: a monument representing a bishop who challenged the establishment has become famous for something much simpler — tourists rubbing his toe for luck!

The Day My Sister Ate a Garden

We checked into Marvie Hotel & Health in Split, expecting the usual—fluffy pillows, a decent breakfast, and maybe those complimentary chocolates that make you feel slightly fancier than you actually are.

Instead, we got… three mysterious brown balls.

Naturally, we assumed they were artisanal chocolate. I mean, what else could they be? Rustic-looking? Yes. Slightly dusty? Maybe it’s cocoa powder! Organic! Sustainable! Very on-brand for a health hotel.

Before anyone could question it, my sister—brave, impulsive, and clearly too trusting—popped one into her mouth.

And then… her face.

I wish I had recorded it.

She just froze. Didn’t even speak. Just slowly turned and looked at me like I had personally set her up.

That was when we realised something was very wrong.

So we actually read the card (which we should have done earlier), and it turns out they were seed balls.

Not food.

You’re supposed to throw them into parks or soil so plants can grow. Something called “guerrilla gardening.”

Meanwhile, my sister had just taken a full bite out of one.

Honestly, I still don’t know what she tasted — soil? regret? both?

Anyway, lesson learnt:
If a hotel gives you something that looks like chocolate… maybe read the instructions first.

Silent Stories#9

Angels Unawares is a bronze sculpture by Canadian artist Timothy Schmalz installed in St. Peter's Square in Vatican City

Key Details

• Location: St. Peter's Square, Vatican City (near the southern colonnade/fountain) 

• Inauguration Date: September 29, 2019, by Pope Francis for the 105th World Day of Migrants and Refugees 

• Dimensions & Weight: 6 meters long (about 20 feet) and weighs 3 tons 

• Subject Matter: Depicts 140 diverse migrants and refugees from different eras, cultures, and races huddled tightly together on a boat. 

• Central Symbol: A pair of angel wings rises from the center of the crowd, including a depiction of the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus). 

• Biblical Inspiration: Based on Hebrews 13:2: "Do not neglect to show hospitality to strangers, for thereby some have entertained angels unawares." 

• Significance: It is the first new sculpture installed in St. Peter's Square in centuries. A smaller bronze version is also housed at the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls in Rome. 

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Spotted in Ljubljana

 

 Frida Kahlo‑inspired planters in Ljubljana

Silent Stories #8

Statues have a way of finding me. I don't set out to photograph them, yet they appear—in plazas, gardens, and street corners—each with its own silent story. Some are famous, others almost forgotten, but all of them invite a pause. Perhaps they fascinate me because public statues are relatively uncommon back home in Malaysia, so every encounter feels like discovering a small piece of another culture. What began as a simple fascination has become a journey of discovering the stories hidden within these silent works of art. 

Here’s another encounter in my Silent Stories series —  statues that found me.

Perseus with the Head of Medusa

This famous bronze masterpiece was created by Benvenuto Cellini between 1545 and 1554.

• Location: It stands in the Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Italy.
• Commission: Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici commissioned the work as a powerful symbol of Medici authority over Florence.
• Design: The statue depicts the Greek hero Perseus standing triumphantly over the body of Medusa, holding her severed, snake-crowned head aloft.
• Hidden Feature: Look closely at the back of Perseus’s helmet and you’ll discover a self-portrait of Cellini cleverly incorporated into the sculpture.

Perseus with the Head of Medusa is not only a Renaissance masterpiece but also a fascinating mixture of mythology, politics and Cellini’s own larger-than-life personality.

Here are some fun and fascinating facts about it:

🎭 The Artist & His Drama

• Benvenuto Cellini (1500–1571) was primarily a goldsmith and metalworker, rather than a sculptor. Perseus became his most famous sculptural achievement.
• Cellini was notorious for his volatile personality and turbulent life. He was accused of crimes including theft, assault, sodomy and murder. His famously colourful autobiography, La Vita, is filled with extraordinary—and sometimes difficult to verify—claims about his life and encounters with other artists.

🗡️ The Statue’s Creation

• Commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1545 and completed in 1554, the statue was unveiled in Piazza della Signoria, where it joined an impressive collection of monumental sculptures.
• Cellini spent almost a decade working on the project, pushing the technical possibilities of large-scale bronze casting. The dramatic streams of blood flowing from Medusa’s severed neck add to its theatrical effect.

🪞 Hidden Details

• On the back of Perseus’s helmet, Cellini incorporated a small self-portrait, giving himself a permanent place within his masterpiece.
• The pedestal reliefs beneath the statue depict scenes from the story of Perseus and Medusa, providing an elaborate bronze retelling of the myth.

🏛️ Political Symbolism

• Perseus’s victory over Medusa was intended to convey a political message: the triumph of Medici authority over their enemies and opponents.
• Its prominent position in Piazza della Signoria, surrounded by other monumental works, helped create a powerful visual statement about Medici strength and control over Florence.

📍 Fun Visitor Notes

• The statue still stands outdoors in the Loggia dei Lanzi, where it can be viewed free of charge.
• Despite being one of the great masterpieces of Renaissance sculpture, it can sometimes be overshadowed by the more famous sculptures nearby—including the replica of Michelangelo’s David.
• And if you walk around to the back, don’t forget to look up at Perseus’s helmet. That little face staring back at you is Cellini himself.

Image credit: Wikimedia Commons / Wikipedia (Portraits of Benvenuto Cellini)

A Four-Legged Landmark

This calm, watchful dog rested quietly on the steps beside Ljubljana's iconic Robba Fountain.

As visitors came and went with their chatter and cameras, it seemed perfectly content to simply watch the world pass by.

Sometimes the most memorable sight isn't the monument—but the peaceful soul keeping it company.

Silent Stories#7

Statues have a way of finding me. I don't set out to photograph them, yet they appear—in plazas, gardens, and street corners—each with its own silent story. Some are famous, others almost forgotten, but all of them invite a pause. Perhaps they fascinate me because public statues are relatively uncommon back home in Malaysia, so every encounter feels like discovering a small piece of another culture. What began as a simple fascination has become a journey of discovering the stories hidden within these silent works of art. 

Here’s another encounter in my Silent Stories series — statues that found me.

The "Fame of Industry" (Renommée de l'Industrie) is an iconic gilded bronze statue located on the Pont Alexandre III bridge in Paris, France. It stands atop one of the four monumental 17-meter-tall masonry pylons that anchor each corner of the bridge. 

Key Details of the Statue

• Location: It is positioned on the Left Bank (the south side of the Seine River), facing towards the Les Invalides complex. 

• The Sculptor: The statue was designed by French sculptor Clément Steiner and completed posthumously by Eugène Gantzlin for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. 

• Design: It features a classical allegorical female figure representing "Fame" restraining the mythical winged horse, Pegasus. 

• The Base: At the masonry base of this specific pylon sits a stone statue representing La France de Louis XIV (France of Louis XIV), sculpted by Laurent Marqueste. 

• Functional Purpose: Beyond their incredible Art Nouveau aesthetic, these massive pylons and their heavy statues serve an engineering purpose: they act as stabilizing counterweights to support the bridge’s remarkably flat, low single-span steel arch. 

The Four "Fames" of Pont Alexandre III

The Fame of Industry is part of a matching set of four gilded sculptures that celebrate different cultural and economic achievements of France: 

• Left Bank (South Side): Fame of Industry and Fame of Commerce.

• Right Bank (North Side): Fame of the Arts and Fame of the Sciences. 

Walls That Strum

 🎸 In the winding streets of Toledo, even the walls seem to sing. I stumbled upon this boutique hotel sign crowned with sculpted hands strumming a guitar—an artistic welcome that feels perfectly at home in Spain's land of music, history, and legends.

Amid silence, you can almost hear the rhythm of flamenco echoing from the wall itself.

The hotel's name, Entre Dos Aguas ("Between Two Waters"), will also sound familiar to music lovers. It shares its title with one of the most celebrated compositions by the legendary Spanish guitarist Paco de Lucía. Whether this is a deliberate tribute or simply a poetic coincidence, the guitar sculpture makes the connection feel almost inevitable.

It's one of those delightful travel moments when a simple hotel sign tells a story. It’s a reminder that in Spain, even a hotel sign can carry the soul of a song.

Silent Stories#6

Statues have a way of finding me. I don't set out to photograph them, yet they appear—in plazas, gardens, and street corners—each with its own silent story. Some are famous, others almost forgotten, but all of them invite a pause. Perhaps they fascinate me because public statues are relatively uncommon back home in Malaysia, so every encounter feels like discovering a small piece of another culture. What began as a simple fascination has become a journey of discovering the stories hidden within these silent works of art. 

Here’s another encounter in my Silent Stories series — a statue that found me.

 Statue of Petar Zoranić — Zadar, Croatia 

• Artist: Unknown / Local Croatian Sculptor.
• Artwork: The Statue of Petar Zoranić commemorates the foundational 16th-century Croatian literary figure.
• Medium: A weathered bronze sculpture depicting the writer standing tall in Renaissance-era attire, uniquely characterized by its robust, powerfully sculpted legs.
• Location: Situated prominently in St. Chrysogonus Square (Trg Svetog Krševana) in the historic, old town core of Zadar, Croatia.
• The Figure: The monument depicts Petar Zoranić (1508–1569), a noble-born poet and notary from nearby Nin who went on to define the early identity of Croatian literature.
• Literary Significance: Zoranić penned Planine (The Mountains) in 1536. Published posthumously in Venice in 1569, this pastoral romance is celebrated by historians as the very first novel ever written in the Croatian language.
• Historical Context: The statue represents a triumph of human expression over conflict. Zoranić wrote his poetry during a tumultuous era when Zadar was a heavily fortified enclave under constant threat and siege by Ottoman forces.
• Concept & Setting: Set against the backdrop of ancient stone facades and the medieval Church of St. Chrysogonus, the statue anchors a quiet public crossroad, connecting modern city wanderers to the cultural renaissance of the eastern Adriatic.
• Silent Story: Standing proudly amidst centuries-old fortifications, the statue whispers a story of patriotism and cultural preservation. Zoranić used his fictional 7-day mountain trek to allegorically awaken his countrymen's love for their native tongue and land.

The Statue of Petar Zoranić reminds us that behind the stoic bronze of historical figures lies a passionate plea to remember who we are and where we come from.

The Plaka Cat

Back in 2023, I was wandering through Plaka, Athens — narrow streets, painted shutters, and right there on a wooden bench, a white cat with orange patches. Calm as a monk, stretched beside a potted plant, watching the world drift by. I even stopped to pet it, noticing the distinctive mark on its face and coloring that made it unforgettable.

Back home in Malaysia, I watched a few YouTube walking tours of Plaka and smiled when I spotted the very same cat roaming the nearby streets — not just outside the shop where I had met it, but moving through the neighborhood as if it belonged there, a familiar face in a place visited by thousands of strangers.

Recently, while looking through old photos, I was reminded of that cat and decided to Google the shop at Thespidos 2, the very spot where I first saw it. The result? “Permanently closed.” Once a concept store, it has since been replaced by an eyewear boutique. The shelves, the counter, the heart‑shaped ornaments, the bench — gone. But the cat? That’s the part Google can’t tell you.

Maybe it wandered off to another doorway, claimed a new bench, or became a regular at the taverna down the street. Cats in Plaka are like unofficial guardians of the neighborhood — they don’t belong to one shop, they belong to the rhythm of the place.

There’s something poetic about it: businesses open and close, signs fade, shutters lock. Yet the cats remain, padding through centuries of change, curling up wherever life still hums. The shop may have vanished, but the memory of that cat lingers — a reminder that sometimes the soul of a street isn’t in its commerce, but in its creatures.

Silent Stories#5

 Statues have a way of finding me. I don't set out to photograph them, yet they appear—in plazas, gardens, and street corners—each with its own silent story. Some are famous, others almost forgotten, but all of them invite a pause. Perhaps they fascinate me because public statues are relatively uncommon back home in Malaysia, so every encounter feels like discovering a small piece of another culture. What began as a simple fascination has become a journey of discovering the stories hidden within these silent works of art. 

Here’s another encounter in my Silent Stories series — statues that found me.

Sean Henry’s Man with Cup — Salisbury Cathedral

• Artist: Sean Henry (born 1965), a British sculptor known for creating life-sized painted bronze figures that explore identity, human presence, and everyday experiences.
• Artwork: Man with Cup (2008) is a life-sized painted bronze sculpture depicting an anonymous man standing quietly while holding a simple cup.
• Medium: The sculpture is made from bronze and hand-painted, a technique Sean Henry uses to give his figures a strikingly lifelike appearance.
• Exhibition at Salisbury Cathedral: The sculpture was displayed at Salisbury Cathedral as part of Sean Henry’s exhibition “Conflux: A Union of the Sacred and the Anonymous” in 2011.
• Concept of the exhibition: The exhibition placed contemporary human figures within the medieval cathedral, creating a dialogue between the sacred surroundings of the past and the ordinary lives of people today.
• The figure: Unlike traditional cathedral sculptures that often depict saints, kings, or biblical figures, Man with Cup represents an everyday, anonymous person — someone who could be any one of us.
• The cup: The ordinary cup held by the figure contrasts with the grandeur of Salisbury Cathedral, suggesting the importance and dignity of everyday moments.
• Location significance: Salisbury Cathedral, built in the 13th century, provides a dramatic setting for Henry’s modern sculptures, highlighting the connection between centuries-old spiritual spaces and contemporary human experiences.
• Silent story: Standing quietly among ancient stone and stained glass, Man with Cup invites visitors to pause and reflect on the unnoticed stories carried by ordinary people.

Sean Henry’s Man with Cup reminds us that even the most ordinary person can become a subject worthy of contemplation.

And the answer to my previous post’s little mystery? — Athens. Some of you were curious, so I won’t keep you guessing. Yes, the mystery photo was taken in Athens, a city in Greece where yellow taxis are part of the everyday landscape.

Where in the World?

Some cities reveal themselves with famous landmarks. Others whisper their identity through everyday life.

A row of well-worn balconies. Shop awnings catching the afternoon sun. Taxis weaving through the traffic while pedestrians wait patiently at the lights. Nothing extraordinary—and yet everything tells a story.

There are clues hidden in this photo if you look closely enough. Can you work out where this was taken?

Drop your guess in the comments.