Day 7: Ronda - Córdoba

Our day began at the beautiful Alameda del Tajo, a peaceful park in Ronda filled with shady trees, colorful flowers, and sweeping views of the countryside. It was the perfect spot for a morning walk—quiet, refreshing, and so full of charm. Locals were out enjoying the sunshine, some walking their dogs while others relaxed on benches beneath the old plane trees. 

From the park’s edge, we could already glimpse the patchwork of farmland below — a quilt stitched in gold and olive green. Meandering roads curled through the terrain like loose ribbons, while distant mountains rose softly in the background.

Leaving the park, we walked to Puente Nuevo, Ronda’s most iconic landmark. The short stroll led us to breathtaking views of El Tajo gorge, where the massive 18th-century stone bridge dramatically links the two towns of Ronda—the newer El Mercadillo and the historic La Ciudad—high above the Guadalevín River.

Built in the 18th century, this architectural marvel soars nearly 100 meters above the gorge and took over 40 years to complete — a masterpiece that still offers one of Spain’s most spectacular views.

Next, we visited Plaza de Toros, Ronda’s legendary bullring and one of the oldest in Spain. 

Standing in the middle of the grand sandy arena, it felt like stepping into a scene from an old Spanish film — you half expect a matador to appear with a flourish of his cape! 

At the arched entrance, it’s impossible not to imagine the past rushing forward.

Picture it: a massive wooden gate bursting open, a raging bull charging out in a blur of muscle and dust. The crowd roars from the stone tiers, a wall of sound rising under the Andalusian sun. Trumpets, tension, excitement—every heartbeat synced to the intensity unfolding in the sand.

This plaza has witnessed centuries of spectacle. Built in the late 18th century, the Plaza de Toros de Ronda is one of Spain’s oldest and most revered bullrings, often called the birthplace of modern bullfighting. Legends were made here, traditions refined, and reputations sealed with a single pass of the cape.

Today, though, the arena feels different.

The stands are quiet. The gravel crunches softly underfoot. Instead of adrenaline, there’s reflection. While bullfights are still occasionally held here, most notably during Ronda’s famous Corrida Goyesca, they are far fewer than in the past—and increasingly controversial. The space now functions largely as a museum and historical monument, inviting visitors to learn rather than cheer.

Here, in the calm after centuries of noise, I felt relief.

Relief that this place can be appreciated for its architecture, its history, and its cultural significance—without the blood and suffering that once defined its purpose. The echoes of the crowd may linger in the stone, but the silence feels like progress.

Some traditions are worth remembering.

Others are better left in the past.

La Ciudad

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced

The church is renowned for housing one of Spain’s most venerated relics—the incorruptible hand of Saint Teresa of Ávila, a 16th-century Carmelite mystic and reformer of the Carmelite order. In Catholic tradition, “incorruptible” refers to a body part that has resisted decomposition after death, which is seen as a sign of holiness. The hand is kept in a special reliquary inside the church and attracts pilgrims and visitors who come to pay their respects and seek spiritual inspiration.

A horse and carriage 

A scene that looks like it belongs in a postcard. But instead of charm, my heart ached. The horse stood there, silent and patient, bearing not just the carriage but the weight of expectation, of tradition, of tourists’ fleeting amusement. What was once celebrated feels heavy now, and I couldn’t help imagining the loneliness and quiet suffering behind those eyes. The romance of the scene fades when you realize who truly carries the burden.

Lunch @ Restaurante Abades Ronda

Lunch at Restaurante Abades Ronda — a hearty Andalusian spread! 🍽️ We started with embutidos ibéricos (local cold cuts), soup, and croquetas de pollo, or chicken croquettes — a classic Spanish tapa commonly served in Ronda. The main dish was carne en salsa, tender beef stew with fries, and we ended on a sweet note with natillas con galleta, a creamy custard topped with a simple biscuit. Comfort food with a Spanish soul.

After lunch, we crossed to the opposite side of the gorge for a completely different view of the town. From this angle, the Puente Nuevo looked even more magnificent — a towering sweep of stone bridging the cliffs, with whitewashed houses perched daringly along the edge. Below, the gorge plunged deep and narrow, the river glimmering in the sun like a silver thread. It was one of those scenes that make you pause, breathe, and quietly say to yourself, wow… this is Ronda.

Now you can see the whitewashed houses of the new town on the left, and the rugged cliffs of the old town rising on the right — Ronda in perfect balance.

From there, we continued our journey to Córdoba, arriving just in time for a delightful dinner.

We started with Calamares Rellenos con Arroz y Salsa Verde, tender squid stuffed and served with rice and a bright green sauce, followed by Solomillo de Cerdo en Salsa, succulent pork tenderloin bathed in a rich, savory sauce with potatoes and vegetables. To finish, we shared a slice of pastel cordobés, Córdoba’s signature puff pastry tart dusted with sugar and filled with sweet pumpkin jam. A hearty end to a day of cliff-top views.

Day 6: Seville

It was an early start as we left Lisbon, crossing the border from Portugal back into Spain — a scenic three-hour drive through rolling hills and golden plains. Our first stop in Spain was Badajoz, where we had lunch at a restaurant in a hotel. Spaniards usually have lunch later in the afternoon, around 1:30 PM to 3:30 PM, so throughout the trip our tour manager had to carefully coordinate with restaurants that could accommodate our group for earlier meals — usually around 12:30 PM for lunch and 6:00 PM for dinner, as we Malaysians tend to eat earlier than the locals.

I especially enjoyed the rich and velvety crema de legumbres — a warm, creamy soup made from blended legumes such as lentils, chickpeas, or beans.

In Spain, the day moves at a different pace — people generally rise later, start work later, and dine much later. The main meal, la comida, is typically between 2:00 PM and 3:30 PM, while dinner (la cena) often doesn’t begin until 9:00 PM or later. Because of this long gap between lunch and dinner, Spaniards developed the custom of enjoying tapas — small plates or snacks usually shared over drinks in the early evening. Tapas aren’t a full dinner but a social way to bridge the hours until the late meal, reflecting the country’s relaxed rhythm and love of conversation. Interestingly, our guide told us there’s even a story behind the word itself. The word tapa means “lid” in Spanish, and it’s said that bartenders once covered glasses of wine with a slice of bread or ham to keep the flies out. Over time, those simple “lids” evolved into the delicious small plates we now know as tapas.

After our lunch stop, we continued on to Seville, ready to soak up the vibrant rhythm and warmth of Andalusia.

Snapshots of Seville

This building is a typical example of Andalusian architecture, featuring Gothic, *Mudéjar, and Renaissance elements.

*Mudéjar elements are Islamic decorative features—such as geometric patterns, brickwork, tiles, and carved wood—integrated into Christian-era buildings in Spain after the Reconquista.

The Seville Cathedral

We took countless photos of Seville Cathedral, but rather than overwhelm you, I’ll share just one glimpse for now. I’m saving the interior for a separate post — the world’s largest Gothic cathedral deserves to be lingered over, not rushed.

Stumbled upon this beautiful azulejo panel on my stroll towards Plaza de España — a little narrative embedded in Seville’s tile traditions. Azulejos are hand-painted ceramic tiles, a centuries-old art form brought to Spain by the Moors and now an iconic feature of Andalusian architecture.

From Seville Cathedral, we made our way to Plaza de España, and nothing quite prepares you for it. The sheer size is astonishing, and the sense of grandeur unfolds slowly as you take it all in — the sweep of the buildings, the openness, the presence of the square.

Plaza de España

Plaza de España was created for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, a world’s fair meant to showcase Spain’s history, culture, and its ties with Latin America. Rather than temporary pavilions, Seville built something monumental and lasting.

This  ornate ceiling sits quietly above one of the arches.

Everywhere in Spain and Portugal, even the most practical things — maps, street names, house numbers, shop signs — are turned into azulejos. Directions don’t just tell you where to go; they pause you for a moment. Cool to the touch, sun-washed, slightly imperfect, these tiled signs feel both functional and poetic. I kept stopping, not because I was lost, but because I didn’t want to walk past them.

One of the most captivating spots in Plaza de España is the long curve lined with 49 tiled benches, each one representing a different province of Spain. Every alcove is a work of art — adorned with colourful azulejos that depict historical scenes, coats of arms, and even a map of the province on the floor

We ended the day with a flamenco dinner show — a mesmerizing blend of music, dance, and Andalusian flavor all in one evening. 

As we enjoyed our meal, the stage came alive with rhythmic footwork, soulful guitar, and the raw passion that makes flamenco so unforgettable. You feel every stomp, every note, every emotion.

Flamenco is a traditional Spanish art form that combines singing (cante), guitar playing (toque), dance (baile), and rhythmic handclaps (palmas). It originated in Andalusia in southern Spain, influenced by the region’s diverse cultural roots — including Moorish, Jewish, and Gypsy traditions. Recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, flamenco is known for its emotional intensity, intricate footwork, and expressive movements.

                          

Another city, another day carefully folded into memory.